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how to replay games from candidates witout any comments ! ? etc in the move list.

I have removed all computer analysis, evaluation, arrows etc, but still ! ? are present in the move list. I also would like to download games from candidates "raw " like you have "dowload raw" from own games
You can use userstyles, for example this with Stylus, see lichess.org/page/extend:

@-moz-document url-prefix("https: //lichess.org/broadcast") {
.analyse__moves:not(:has(move.active)), .analyse__moves move.active ~ move { visibility: hidden; }
.result, .analyse__moves .status, .study__tags, .analyse__fork, res, interrupt, comment, inline, glyph, .mchat, .relay-tour__text__leaderboard, .chat__members, .study__server-eval, .analyse__round-training { display: none !important; }
.analyse__moves move.inaccuracy, .analyse__moves move.mistake, .analyse__moves move.blunder { color: inherit; }
}

works better with inline notation. Also remove the space between https and //. Had to add it here, because of the forum treating them as links.

As for raw PGNs... if you want to download the PGN without analysis and comments, switch to Share & export under the board, right-click on desired Download one, click Copy link address in browser's context menu, then paste the URL to a new tab and add following at the end of the URL without any spaces:

?comments=false&variations=false&clocks=false